To start growing
you must have good seeds, some seedling soil, some small and large pots
and depending on whether you're growing indoor or outdoor some lamps
and
all the toys around them.
Soak the seeds
in a cup of water overnight before beginning the process of growing. First
you may want to have some good fertilized soil, preferably peat moss, and
you may want to use a little bit of miracle grow, which can be purchased
at a low price at any plant shop, pretty mucQuik grow tips. You must have
either a 400 watt or 600 watt grow lamp. Soft white bulbs will NOT work.
RATIO: 1 400
watt lamp
= 1 squire meter of plants( +/- 25 plants). First up you will
need a small space. A wooden closet of approximately 100*100*200cm would
be good. This size can be varied depending on the number of plants but
this is good for 25. Remember to make sure that your lights will fit inside
the closet. The inside of this closet should be painted with flat white
paint or coated with aluminum foil (or mylar is you have it). This will
increase reflectivity and will make your lights more effective. Now you
need to put lights inside the cabinet.
The optimum
temperature is 27-30 C. It will probably be hotter than this so cut a small
ventilation hole (10cm*10cm) in the top of the cabinet. Mount the lights
vertically with one in each corner, as close to the top of the cabinet
as possible. Mount the remaining light on the roof of the cabinet. Wire
all the lights into one plug with enough cable to reach the socket. This
could be dangerous so get someone who knows what they are doing to do it.
Use an appropriate fuse or better still, buy a circuit breaker. Buy a timer.
A standard and widely available 24hr timer will be fine. These are cheap.
Get some potting soil from a garden center. Sandy or loose soils are good
soils for growing. The exact soil is not all that important. With enough
light and nutrients you should have no trouble getting good growth. If
you can then monitor soil pH values.
Switch the
lights
on and leave them on. Plant 10-15 seeds. Water the plants once a
day and feed the plants twice a week with a standard miracle grow product
in the water. Try to use a high nitrogen plant food during vegetative growth
(at the start) and a low nitrogen plant food during flowering. When the
plants get to the height you want them (about 60cm is good) set the timer
for 12 hours of light and 12 of dark.
Only water
once every two days around the time when the lights come on. This will
halt vertical growth and after a few weeks the plants will start to show
either male or female characteristics. Males: pollen balls. Females: stems
and branches. During the dark periods absolutely no light should
be allowed in. Cut out the males before they release pollen. Reduce the
number of plants down to the best 5 females. These females will now grow
outwards. The whole thing takes 4 months. 4-6 weeks in vegetative growth
stage, 2 weeks differentiation to split males and females and 8 weeks for
the females to flower. Harvest when the large leaves begin to yellow and
drop off. Cut the leaves off and let dry on a flat surface. Trim the leaf
near the buds and hang the buds to dry for about a week.
A book with
pictures and good detail is essential for serious growing. Growth space
must be high enough to allow growth to about 60cm (2-3ft). This requires
a space of about 100cm (4ft high). Twice this height should be converted
into a two level growing space by inserting a shelf. There should be between
18inches and 2ft growing space per plant. All of the inside of the growing
space should be coated with foil or painted with white paint to increase
reflectivity and improve light efficiency. More space than the minimum
is always best because good ventilation can greatly improve growth rates.
Lighting
Fluorescent
tubes are named for the spectrum of light which they emit. Some spectrums
are more efficient than others. Deluxe warm white, warm white and deluxe
cool white
are all conducive to good growth and should be widely available.
All types of growing light should have a reflector box around them directing
the light towards the plants. You should get the longest light that will
fit into your space and the highest wattage you can find. Screw-in grow
bulbs are tempting but highly inefficient.
Plant Pot
Size
A pot of 5"*5"*5"
should be perfect to support good growth. One of these per plant.
Organic
Soil Mixes
There are
many different types of soil mixes available and they are easy to obtain
from garden centers.
Two proven
types are: -4 parts topsoil, 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part
perlite. This is moist, contains medium/high amounts of nutrients and is
best for hand watering systems. -1 part worm castings, 2 parts vermiculite,
1 part perlite. This is light-weight and high in nutrients.
Fertilizer
The main nutrients
that a plant needs to grow are Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. Most
plant fertilizers contain these elements and a good, easily available,
one is called Grow More. If you really want to then here are the some effective
ratios of the three elements to be used through the two growth stages.
Early growth stages: 7-9-5 or 5-10-5 or 4-5-3. For the flowering stages
use 3-10-4 or 5-20-5 or 4-30-12. It is best to build up the amount of fertilizer
you use to what is making the plants look healthily green as too much fertilizer
can kill the plant.
Soil pH
Levels
Any pH level
between 6 and 7 is fine but you should aim for as close to 6.5 as possible.
Temperature
Aim for 70
F. Anything higher than 75F will be too hot and will damage growth. Make
sure the water for watering is luke-warm.
CANNABIS
LIFE CYCLE
Marijuana
plants may belong to any one of a number of varieties which follow somewhat
different growth patterns. The following outline describes the more common
form of growth. Differences between varieties can be thought of as variations
on this standard theme. Cannabis is an annual plant. A single season completes
a generation, leaving all hope for the future to the seeds. The normal
life cycle follows the general pattern described below.
Germination
With winter
past, the moisture and warmth of spring stir activity in the embryo. Water
is absorbed and the embryo's tissues swell and grow, splitting the seed
along its suture. The radical or embryonic root appears first. Once clear
of the seed, the root directs growth downward in response to gravity. Meanwhile,
the seed is being lifted upward by growing cells which form the seedling's
stem.
Now anchored
by the roots, and receiving water and nutrients, the embryonic leaves (cotyledons)
unfold. They are a pair of small, somewhat oval, simple leaves, now green
with chlorophyll to absorb the life-giving light. Germination is complete.
The embryo has been reborn and is now a seedling living on the food it
produces through photosynthesis. The process of germination is usually
completed in three to 10 days.
Seedling
The second
pair of leaves begins the seedling stage. They are set opposite each other
and usually have a single blade. They differ from the embryonic leaves
by their larger size, spearhead shape, and serrated margins. With the next
pair of leaves that appears, usually each leaf has three blades and is
larger still. A basic pattern has been set. Each new set of leaves will
be larger, with a higher number of blades per leaf until, depending on
variety, they reach their maximum number, often nine or 11. The seedling
stage is completed within four to six weeks.
Vegetative
Growth
This is the
period of maximum growth. The plant can grow no faster than the rate that
its leaves can produce energy for new growth. Each day more leaf tissue
is created, increasing the overall capacity for growth. With excellent
growing conditions, Cannabis has been known to grow six inches a
day, although the rate is more commonly one to two inches. The number of
blades on each leaf begins to decline during the middle of the vegetative
stage. Then the arrangement of the leaves on the stem (phyllotaxy) changes
from the usual opposite to alternate. The internodes (stem space from one
pair of leaves to the next, which had been increasing in length) begin
to decrease, and the growth appears to be thicker. Branches which appeared
in the axis of each set of leaves grow and shape the plant to its characteristic
form. The vegetative stage is usually completed in the third to fifth months
of growth.
Preflowering
This is a
quiescent period of one to two weeks during which growth slows considerably.
The plant is beginning a new program of growth as encoded in its genes.
The old system is turned off and the new program beings with the appearance
of the first flowers.
Flowering
Cannabis is
dioecious: each plant produces either male or female flowers, and is considered
either a male or female plant. Male plants usually start to flowers about
one month before the female; however, there is sufficient overlap to ensure
pollination. First the upper internodes elongate; in a few days the male
flowers appear. The male flowers are quite small, about 1/4 inch, and are
pale green, yellow, or red/purple. They develop in dense, drooping clusters
(cymes) capable of releasing clouds of pollen dust.
Once pollen
falls, males lose vigor and soon die. The female flowers consists of two
small (1/4 to 1/2 inch long), fuzzy white stigmas raised in a V sign and
attached at the base to an ovule which is contained in a tiny green pod.
The pod is formed from modified leaves (bracts and bracteoles) which envelop
the developing seed. The female flowers develop tightly together to form
dense clusters (racemes) or buds, cones, or colas (in this book, buds).
The bloom continues until pollen reaches the flowers, fertilizing them
and beginning the formation of seeds. Flowering usually lasts about one
or two months, but may continue longer when the plants are not pollinated
and there is no killing frost.
Seed Set
A fertilized
female flower develops a single seed wrapped in the bracts. In thick clusters,
they form the seed-filled buds that make up most fine imported marijuana.
After pollination, mature, viable seeds take from 10 days to five weeks
to develop. When seeds are desired, the plant is harvested when enough
seeds have reached full color. For a fully-seeded plant this often takes
place when the plant has stopped growth and is, in fact, dying. During
flowering and seed set, various colors may appear. All the plant's energy
goes to reproduction and the continuance of its kind. Minerals and nutrients
flow from the leaves to the seeds, and the chlorophyll's that give the
plant its green color disintegrate. The gold's, browns, and reds which
appear are from accessory pigments that formerly had been masked by chlorophyll.
About Plants
Generally
Plants use
a fundamentally different "life strategy" from animals. Animals are more
or less self-contained units that grow and develop to predetermined forms.
They use movement and choice of behavior to deal with the changing environments.
Plants are organized more as open systems - the simple physical characteristics
of the environment, such as sunlight, water, and temperature, directly
control their growth, form, and life cycles. Once the seed sprouts, the
plant is rooted in place and time. Since growth is regulated by the environment,
development is on accordance with the plant's immediate surroundings. When
a balance is struck, the strategy is a success and life flourishes.
Behavior of
a plant is not a matter of choice; it is a fixed response. On a visible
level the response more often than not is growth, either a new form of
growth, or specialized growth. By directly responding, plant in effect
"know," for example, when to sprout, flower, or drop leaves to prepare
for winter. Everyone has seen how a plant turns toward light or can bend
upward if it its stem is bent down. The plant turns by growing cells of
different length on opposite sides of the stem. This effect turns or right
the plant.
The stimulus
in the first case is light, in the second gravity, but essentially the
plant responds by specialized growth. It is the same with almost all facets
of a plant's live - growth is modified and controlled by the immediate
environment. The influence of light, wind, rainfall, etc., interacts with
the plant (its genetic make-up or genotype) to produce the individual plant
(phenotype). The life cycle of Cannabis is usually complete in four to
nine months. The actual time depends on variety, but it is regulated by
local growing conditions, specifically the photoperiod (length of day vs. night).
Cannabis is
a long-night (or short-day) plant. When exposed to a period of two weeks
of long nights - that is, 13 or more hours of continuous darkness each
night - the plants respond by flowering. This has important implications,
for it allows the grower to control the life cycle of the plant and adapt
it to local growing conditions or unique situations. Since you can control
flowering, you control maturation and, hence, the age of the plants at
harvest.
PHOTOPERIOD
AND FLOWERING
For the marijuana
grower the most important plant/environment interaction to understand is
the influence of the photoperiod. The photoperiod is the daily number of
hours of day (light) vs. night (dark). In nature, long nights signal the
plant that winter is coming and that it is time to flowers and produce
seeds. As long as the day-length is long, the plants continue vegetative
growth. If female flowers do appear, there will only be a few. These flowers
will not form the characteristic large clusters or buds. If the days are
too short, the plants flowers too soon, and remain small and underdeveloped.
The plant "senses"
the longer nights by a direct interaction with light. A flowering hormone
is present during all stages of growth. This hormone is sensitive to light
and is rendered inactive by even low levels of light. When the dark periods
are long enough, the hormones increase to a critical level that triggers
the reproductive cycle. Vegetative growth ends and flowering begins. The
natural photoperiod changes with the passing of seasons. In the Northern
Hemisphere, the length of daylight is longest on June 21. Day-length gradually
decreases until it reaches its shortest duration on December 22. The duration
of daylight then begins to increase until the cycle is completed the following
June 21.
Because the
Earth is tilted on its axis to the sun, day-length also depends on position
(or latitude) on Earth. As one moves closer to the equator, changes in
the photoperiod are less drastic over the course of a year. At the equator
(0 degrees altitude) day length lasts about 12.5 hours on June 21 and 11.5
hours on December 22. In Maine (about 45 degrees north), day-length varies
between about 16 and nine hours. Near the Arctic Circle on June 21 there
is no night. On December 22 the whole day is dark. The longer day-length
toward the north prevents marijuana from flowering until later in the season.
Over most of the northern half of the country, flowering is often so late
that development cannot be completed before the onset of cold weather and
heavy frosts.
The actual
length of day largely depends on local conditions, such as cloud cover,
altitude, and terrain. On a flat Midwest plain, the effective length of
day is about 30 minutes longer than sunrise to sunset. In practical terms,
it is little help to calculate the photoperiod, but it is important to
realize how it affects the plants and how you can use it to you advantage.
Cannabis generally needs about two weeks of successive long nights before
the first flowers appear. The photoperiod necessary for flowering will
vary slight with (1) the variety, (2) the age of the plant, (3) its sex,
and (4) growing conditions.
1. Cannabis
varieties originating from more northerly climes (short growing seasons)
react to as little as nine hours of night. Most of these are hemp and seed
varieties that are acclimated to short growing seasons, such as the weedy
hemp's of Minnesota or southern Canada. Varieties from more southerly latitudes
need longer nights with 11 to 13 hours of darkness. Since most marijuana
plants are acclimated to southerly latitudes, they need the longer nights
to flower. To be on the safe side, if you give Cannabis plant dark periods
of 13 or more hours, each night for two weeks, this should be enough to
trigger flowering.
2. The older
a plant (the more physiologically developed), the quicker it responds to
long nights. Plants five or six months old sometimes form visible flowers
after only four long nights. Young marijuana plants (a month or so of age)
can take up to four weeks to respond to long nights of 16 hours.
3. Both male
and female Cannabis are long-night plants. Both will flower when given
about two weeks of long nights. The male plant, however, will often flower
fully under very long days (18 hours) and short nights (six hours). Males
often flowers at about the same time they would if they were growing in
their original environment. For most marijuana plants this occurs during
the third to fifth month.
4. Growing
conditions affect flowering in many ways (see Chapter 12). Cool temperatures
(about 50F) slow down the flowering response. Cool temperatures or generally
poor growing conditions affect flowering indirectly. Flower development
is slower, and more time is needed to reach full bloom. Under adverse conditions,
female buds will not develop to full size.
Applications
of Photoperiod
The photoperiod
is used to manipulate the plants in two basic ways:
1. By giving
long dark periods, you can force plants to flower.
2. By preventing
long nights, using artificial light to interrupt the dark period, you can
force the plants to continue vegetative growth.
Outdoors
Most marijuana
plants cultivated in the United States begin to flower by late August to
early October and the plants are harvested from October to November. For
farmers in the South, parts of the Midwest, and West Coast, this presents
no problem and no special techniques are needed for normal flowering. In
much of the North and high-altitude areas, many varieties will not have
time to complete flowering before fall frosts. To force the plants to flower
earlier, give them longer night periods. If the plants are in containers,
you can simply move them into a darkened area each evening.
Plants growing
in the ground can be covered with an opaque tarpaulin, black sheet plastic,
or double or triple-layers black plastic trash bags. Take advantage of
any natural shading because direct sunlight is difficult to screen completely.
For instance, if the plants are naturally shaded in the morning hours,
cover the plants each evening or night. The next morning you uncover the
plants at about eight to nine o'clock. Continue the treatment each day
until all the plants are showing flowers. This usually takes two weeks
at most, is the plants are well developed (about four months old). For
this reason, where the season starts late, it is best to start the plants
indoors or in cold frames and transplant outdoors when the weather
is mild. This in effect lengthens the local growing season and gives the
plants another month or two to develop.
By the end
of August the plants are physiologically ready to flower; they sometimes
do with no manipulation of the photoperiod. More often female plants show
a few flowers, but the day-length prevents rapid development to large clusters.
The plants seem in limbo - caught between vegetative growth and flowering.
The natural day-length at this time of year will not be long enough to
reverse the process, so you can discontinue the treatment when you
see that the new growth is predominantly flowers. In areas where frosts
are likely to occur by early October, long-night treatments may be the
only way you can harvest good-sized flower clusters. These clusters, or
buds, are the most potent plant parts and make up the desired harvest.
Forcing the plants to flowers early also means development while the weather
is warm and the sun is shining strongly.
The flower
buds will form much faster, larger and reach their peak potency. A good
time to start the treatments is early to middle August. This allows the
plants at least four weeks of flowering while the weather is mild. Another
reason you may want to do this is to synchronize the life cycle of the
plants with the indigenous vegetation. In the northeast and central states,
the growing season ends quite early and much of the local vegetation dies
back and changes color. Any marijuana plants stick out like green thumbs,
and the crop may get ripped off or busted. Plants treated with long nights
during late July will be ready to harvest in September.
Outdoor growers
should always plant several varieties, because some may naturally flower
early, even in the northern-most parts of the country. These early-maturing
varieties usually come from Mexican, Central Asian, and homegrown sources.
By planting several varieties, many of you will be able to find or develop
an early maturing variety after a season or two. This, of course, is an
important point, because it eliminates the need for long-night treatments.
Preventing
Flowers
Manipulation
of the photoperiod can also prevent the plants from flowering until a desired
time. For example, in Hawaii the weather is mild enough to grow winter
crops. The normal summer crop is harvested anytime from September to mid-November.
The winter crop is generally planted from October to December. Because
the winter days are so short, the plants flower almost immediately, usually
within two month. The plants are harvested in their third or fourth month
and yield about 1/4 the yield of summer plants.
A large Hawaiian
female can yield a pound of buds. Most of the plant's overall size is reached
while it is vegetatively growing. By interrupting the night period with
light, you can keep these plants vegetatively growing for another month,
yielding plants of about twice the size. The amount of light needed to
prevent flowering is quite small (about .03 foot candles95 - on a clear
night the full moon is about .01 foot candles). However, each plant mist
is illuminated fully, with the light shining over the whole plant.
This might
be accomplished with either electric light or a strong flashlight. The
easiest way is to string incandescent bulbs, keeping them on a timer. The
lights need be turned on for only a flash at any time during the night
period, from about 9:00 PM to about 3:00 am. The interrupts the long night
period to less then nine hours. Start these night treatments each night
or two, until you want the plants to flower.
Indoors
Natural Light.
The growing season lasts all year. The night period is much easier to control.
Sometimes people grow plants in their windows for more than a year without
any female flowers ever forming. This is because household lamps are turned
on sometime at night, illuminating the plants. Under natural light exclusively,
indoor plants flower at about the same time they would outdoors (sometime
a bit sooner because it is warmer indoors or the plants may be shaded).
When plants
are well developed and you want them to flower, make sure that no household
lamps or nearby street lamps are shining on them. During late fall and
winter, the natural day-length is short enough for the plants to flower
naturally, if you simply keep off any lights at night that are in the same
room as the plants. If you must use light, use the lowest wattage possible,
such as a six-watt bulb
. (The hormone is also least sensitive to blue light.)
Shield the light away from the plants. Or shield the plants from any household
light with aluminum foil curtains.
Once the flowers
are forming clusters, you can discontinue the dark treatments, especially
if it is more convenient. However, if it is too soon (when you see only
a few random flowers), household lights can reverse the process. By using
natural light, you can grow indoor crops all year. The winter light is
weak and the days are short, so it is best to use artificial lights to
supplement daylight, as well as to extend the photoperiod. The extra light
will increase the growth rate of the plants and hence size and yield. You
should allow winter crops to flower during late January or February, using
the natural photoperiod to trigger flowering. If you wait until spring,
the natural light period will be too long and may prevent flowering.
Artificial
Lights
Under artificial
light the photoperiod is, of course, any length you wish. The most popular
way to grow with artificial lights is the harvest system. Start the plants
under long light periods of from 16 to 18 hours daily. After the plants
have reached a good size, usually between three and six months, shorten
the light cycle to about 12 hours to force flowering.
To decide exactly
when to force the plants to flower, let their growth be the determinant.
If male plants are showing their flowers, then the females are physiologically
ready to flower. Most of the plant's overall height is achieved during
vegetative growth. Some varieties, of course, are smaller and grow more
slowly than others. Wait until the plants are nearing the limits of the
height of the garden or are at least five feet tall. This is large enough
to support good flower development and return a good yield. If you turn
down the light cycle when the plants are young and small, you'll harvest
much less grass because the plants simply can't sustain a large number
of flowers.
Some leaf growers
prefer a continuous growth system, emphasizing leaf growth and a continuous
supply of grass. The light cycle is set for 18 to 24 hours a day. This
prevents flowering and the plants continue their rapid vegetative growth.
Growing shoots and leaves are harvested as used, and plants are removed
whenever they lose their vigor and growth has noticeably slowed. New plants
are started in their place. In this way, there will be plants at different
growth stages, some of which will be in their rapid vegetative growth stage
and will be quite potent. Male plants and some females eventually will
form flowers, but the females will not form large clusters. People often
use this system when the lights are permanently fixed. Small plants are
raised up to the lights on tables or boxes. This garden never shuts down
and yields a continuous supply of grass.
Variations
by Plant Part
The concentration
of cannabinoids depends on the plant part, or more specifically, the concentration
and development of resin glands to plant part. The female flower bracts
have the highest concentration of resin glands and are usually the most
potent plant parts. Seeds and roots have no resin glands. These shoe no
more than traces of canninbinoids. Smoke seeds will give you a headache
before you can get high. If you got high on seeds, then there were probably
enough bracts adhering to the seeds to get you high. Here are the potencies,
in descending order, of the various plant parts:
1. Female flowering
clusters. In practice you don't separate hundreds of tiny bracts to make
a joint. The whole flowering mass (seeds removed), along with small accompanying
leaves, forms the material.
2. Male flower
clusters. These vary more in relative potency depending on the strain (see
"Potency by Sex," below).
3. Growing
shoots. Before the plants flower, the vegetative shoots (tips) of the main
stem and branches are the most potent plant parts.
4. Leaves (a)
that accompany flowers (small); (b) along branches (medium); (c) along
main stem (large). Generally, the smaller the leaf is, the more potent
it can be.
5. Petioles
(leaf stalks). Same order as leaves.
6. Stems. Same
order as leaves. The smaller the stem (twig), the higher the possible concentration
of cannabinoids. Stems over 1/16" in diameter contain only traces of cannabinoids
and are not worth smoking. The small stems that bear the flowers can be
quite potent.
7. Seeds and
Roots. Contain only traces (less then .01 percent) and are not worth smoking
or extracting.
This order
is fairly consistent. The exceptions can be the small leaves that accompany
male flowers, which are sometimes more potent than the flowers themselves.
The growing shoots are sometimes more potent than the mature female flowers.
Samples of pollen show varying amounts of cannabinoids. Resin glands are
found inside the anthers, alongside the developing pollen grains, and form
two rows on opposite sides of each anther. Pollen grains are smaller than
the heads of large resin glands and range from 21 to 69 micrometers in
diameter21. A small amount of resin contaminates the pollen when glands
rupture, but most of the THC in pollen samples comes from gland heads that
fall with pollen when the flowers are shaken to collect it. One study,
using pollen for the sample, found concentrations of up to 0.96 percent
THC, more then enough to get you high79.
Cultivation:
Indoors or Outdoors?
The basic
elements of the environment (light, water, air, and soil) provide plants
with their fundamental needs. These environmental factors affect the growth
rates of plants, as well as their life cycles. If one factor is deficient,
growth rate and vigor will wan regardless of the other three. For instance,
with low light, the growth will be limited no matter how fertile and moist
the soil is. In the same sense, if soil minerals are scarce, the growth
rate will be limited no matter how you increase the light.
Indoors
vs. Outdoors
At this point
the book divides into separate indoor and outdoor cultivation sections,
and you may wonder whether it is better to grow the plant indoors or outdoors.
Each alternative has advantages and disadvantages. It is usually better
to grow the plants outdoors if possible, because the plants can grow much
larger and faster than indoor. Indoor presents space and light limitations.
It is possible to grow a 15-foot bush indoors, but this is unrealistic
in most home. There simply isn't enough room or light for such a large
plant. Outdoor gardens return a much higher yield for the effort and expense.
most indoor gardeners buy soil and may have to buy electric lights.
So
there is an initial investment of anywhere from $10 on up.
On the other
hand, outdoor plants are more likely to be seen. Many gardens get ripped
off, and busts are a constant threat. Indoor gardens are much less likely
to be discovered. Gardening indoors allows the grower closer contact with
the plants. The plants can be grown all year long; it is an easy matter
to control their growth cycles and flowering. Probably the biggest attraction
of indoor gardens is that they are beautiful to watch and easy to set up
anywhere. One popular compromise is to construct a simple greenhouse. Use
plastic to either enclose part of a porch or to cover a frame built against
the house. The potency of the plants doesn't depend on whether they are
grown indoors or outdoors. As long as you grow healthy plants that reach
maturity and complete their life cycle, the grass can be as good as any
you've ever smoked.
Be sure to check out our other Growers Guide